Mounting Workshop

Below are my notes from the mounting workshop:

• Trimming the print doesn’t have to be precise if the board is oversized. Be careful with A3/A1.
  • The blade has to stay vertical when cutting.
• Switch on at the wall, and wipe down rollers on the mounting machine.
• The red switch on top is an emergency switch. Push down and rotate the switch to reset.
• Keep on foot setting use like a sewing machine.
  • Can damage the ends of the board if left on the Auto setting.
• No material thicker than 12mm should go through.
  • Can use 15mm, but the pressure won’t be even.
• Turn dials clockwise to go down in height.
  • Use a piece of material that you’re mounting onto to check for the correct height.
  • Turn dials at the same time with the same amount.
• Feel the pressure in dials when adjusting height, and stop when it goes slack. Hit the foot switch to test the correct height.
  • Materials should run straight, and shouldn’t run off the side.
  • If it does veer off, then adjust on the same side it veered off to.
• Catch the beginning of the board and wrap excess material onto of roller. Don’t let the material get caught or cause a crease.
  • Keep on middle speed to start off.
• Watch out for green flecks from the cutting board that could get stuck in between print and board.
  • Otherwise, it will create a huge bubble between print and board, which can be partially fixed by a squeegee, but try not to rely on this as it’s better to start from scratch if this happens.
• Be careful with the positioning of the print onto the sticky surface of the board. I’d try to adjust, you’ll put stress on your print.
  • Gently press a finger on the sticky side of the print.
  • Matte black ink is easily scuffed so be careful with rollers.
• Use a cloth to wipe the back of the print and have no gap between the roller and print to reduce bubbles.
• Clean the mounting machine thoroughly after use and turn it off at the wall.
• Change the blade every time you start to cut, other the edges will look messy.
• Snap-off blades have too much of a wobble/flex and will ruin your prints.
• Walk your fingers down the blade to keep pressure on the ruler, always try to do it in one cut.
• Always wear protective gloves when handling the blade and cutting board.
• The bevel cutter will cut through the cutting board so make sure to place a card or similar material underneath the part you’re cutting to prevent damaging the board.
• Use a sharpened pencil to mark on the board, draw thin lines and use the artist’s putty to remove them.
• The window needs to be slightly smaller than print 1mm x 1mm on each edge.
• Attach the window to the backboard with acid-free tape with one long piece
• Before attaching the print, place a soft bag of coins onto the print to keep it from shifting from side to side.
  • Then adjust the print underneath the window according to your liking
• Attach print by adding two pieces of tape behind the sticky side up, then close the window for it to adhere to the back of it.
• Then flip the construction to see behind the print and add a T hinge, by sticking a horizontal piece of tape on top of the vertical piece
  • Use a fingernailnail to define the edge beside the print and to make sure the tape is secure.